Going up the valley, just before entering the village of Gressoney La Trinité, pass the junction for the hamlet of Lysbalma and park on the right by a small dirt road. Follow the dirt track heading towards an impressive rock buttress, where an ice flow forms in winter and where you can find dry-tooling routes as well as some aid climbing itineraries. The "safest" side of this formation remains the right flank: follow the dirt road until you reach a stream bed that is often dry, head up the rocky bed or walk alongside it on the meadow for about 5 minutes. The start of the route is located on a spacious grassy ledge, which is accessed just beyond the route's starting point (walk back about fifty metres).

Please note: the route is not very busy and can be a little dusty in some sections; using a helmet is highly recommended.

You will also find a few old hangers on site; the route described here is easy to recognise, thanks to both the modern bolting and a dashed white paint line.

Alex Busca Route: L1 6a+, L2 V+, L3 V.

Descent: one long free-hanging abseil with two 60m ropes, or 30m

abseils.