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The Western Lyskamm at 4,417 m

CATEGORY

Mountaineering

DIFFICULTY

A Moderate Challenge

ELEVATION GAIN

1,690 m

DURATION

2 days

SEASON

Summer

LOCATION

Mount Rosa

Overview

First climbed on 16 August 1864 by Leslie Stephen and Edward N. Buxton, along with Jakob Anderegg and Franz Biner, the Western Lyskamm is a summit cherished by many. The route initially traverses the Felik Glacier, then ascends steep slopes (45°) before leading to a delightful and engaging final ridge.

Under good snow conditions, the ascent is more straightforward; however, if bare ice is exposed, the climb can become more challenging.

Please note: the ascent of the Western Lyskamm is intended for experienced mountaineers. Before accepting the climb, our guides will kindly request your mountaineering resume and, if necessary, suggest a warm-up climb to assess your skills and preparation.

As this spectacular climb requires stable weather and excellent conditions, it is only possible to set an tentative date, which will then be confirmed in the days leading up to the departure.

The rate, including lifts and mountain huts, may vary and will be finalised closer to the date once conditions have been evaluated.

Period: From June to September

Programme

FIRST DAY:

We meet at 14:30 at the ticket office of the Staffal ski lifts, check our equipment together and take the lifts up to Colle della Bettaforca (2700 m). From there, we begin our walk up to the Quintino Sella Refuge (3585 m), which we reach in about 3 and a half hours. Dinner and overnight stay at the refuge.

SECOND DAY:

We set off at dawn to reach the summit of Western Lyskamm (4479 m), which we climb in about 5 hours. After a brief rest, we return along the same route to the Quintino Sella Refuge, descend to Colle della Bettaforca and arrive back in Staffal in the afternoon, around 16:30.

1 Participant

€800

Per person

The price includes:

Guiding by an IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide.
Harness and crampons.

The price does NOT include:

Lift passes.
Half-board accommodation for the clients and the guide at the mountain hut (to be covered by the client).

I'm interested!

The most common questions

What to know before you set off

Mountaineering is by its very nature an adventurous activity. The Monte Rosa guides, all of whom are UIAGM certified, are dedicated to doing everything possible to minimise any hazards, but a element of risk is always present and should be embraced as part of the adventure before signing up for our activities.

The Monte Rosa Guides will always do their utmost to help you achieve your personal goals and ensure you have the best possible experience in nature. However, you must agree to trust their professional judgement whilst in the mountains and respect any decision they make, including turning back, should it be deemed necessary. Being well-prepared and maintaining a good level of physical fitness is essential to ensure a safe and enjoyable journey on all our excursions. If, due to fitness levels or any other reason, your guide feels you are not quite ready for your chosen activity, they will happily suggest alternative adventures beautifully suited to your current level of preparation.

What to pack

5 layers for the upper body: thermal base layer and a spare, fleece, a heavier fleece, down jacket, windproof shell.
2 pairs of gloves (one lightweight pair and one pair of ski gloves).
Windproof mountaineering trousers.
Leggings/tights.
Gaiters.
WATERPROOF, stiff-soled, high-ankle boots.
Two pairs of ski socks.
A warm hat that covers your ears.
Sunglasses with high UV protection (category 3 or 4).
Sunscreen and lip balm.
Ice axe (if you are experienced in using one).
Crampons and harness.
Head torch.
Sleeping bag liner.
1-litre water bottle/flask.
Telescopic trekking poles with snow baskets.
Helmet (optional).

5 layers for the upper body: thermal base layer and a spare, fleece, a heavier fleece, down jacket, windproof shell.
2 pairs of gloves (one lightweight pair and one pair of ski gloves).
Windproof mountaineering trousers.
Leggings/tights.
Gaiters.
WATERPROOF, stiff-soled, high-ankle boots.
Two pairs of ski socks.
A warm hat that covers your ears.
Sunglasses with high UV protection (category 3 or 4).
Sunscreen and lip balm.
Ice axe (if you are experienced in using one).
Crampons and harness.
Head torch.
Sleeping bag liner.
1-litre water bottle/flask.
Telescopic trekking poles with snow baskets.
Helmet (optional).